Egyptian Cotton

Q: What should YOU know about Egyptian Cotton?

A: As the term implies, Egyptian cotton is used to describe cotton grown in Egypt. The fertile Nile River valley of Egypt has long been considered the most desirable setting for growing the finest cotton in the world. It has the perfect climate to produce cotton with extra-long fibers; the valley is sufficiently humid and the soil is rich in nutrients. This reputation is precisely what makes the term "Egyptian cotton" so meaningful to consumers.

It is important to recognize that Egypt grows a variety of different types of cotton, which are categorized by the length of the cotton fiber (known as staple). There is Extra-Long Staple (ELS), Long-Staple (LS), and regular cotton, and there are significant differences between these varieties.

The ELS fibers allow the cotton to be spun into much finer, softer, and stronger yarns. And fabric woven with ELS cotton is more breathable, providing greater comfort. It also produces less lint and has less of a tendency to pill. And as an added bonus, it becomes softer with every laundering.

Unfortunately, most products labeled "Egyptian cotton" are not made with ELS cotton yarns. Only a small percentage of the Egyptian cotton production is ELS, and within the ELS category, the finest varietals are not being grown in any significant quantities. Therefore, it is best to be somewhat wary when "Egyptian cotton" is listed as the fiber content.

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Gingham Check Pattern

Q:  What is a gingham check pattern?

A:  Gingham is a plain weave, yarn-dyed cotton or cotton-blend fabric.  Gingham was originally woven with stripe patterns, but is also woven with checks (two colors) or plaids (three or more colors).

A gingham check pattern is created by weaving parallel horizontal and vertical stripes of equal widths, either in a white and color-dyed yarn, or two color-dyed yarns.  The crisscrossing of the two colors in the warp (lengthwise strands attached to the loom) and weft (horizontal strands that cross the warp) produces an allover pattern of solid-color, square checks.  The two colors of stripes intersect to form a third color check.  Think of a classic red picnic cloth or Dorothy's blue dress in the Wizard of Oz.

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Punto Ombra Hem

Q: What is a punto ombra hem?


A: Punto ombra is a special Italian hem treatment in which a satin stitch is embroidered on the reverse side of the fabric. This stitch creates a low-relief, or raised, borer on the front of the fabric for a subtly finished hem. A punto ombra hem is clean-lined, elegant, and resilient. It is much more subtle than the classic satin stitch, for it uses the fabric itself to create the hem, ensuring a perfect match with the color of the fabric.

Below is an example of a punto ombra hem from SFERRA called Avellina:

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We Know What Pique Is, Do You?

Q: What is Piqué fabric?

A: Piqué (pronounced "pee-kay") fabric is characterized by raised designs - cords, waffles, or patterns. Technically, piqué fabric is known as a double-cloth, with the unique texture achieved by weaving two layers of fabric, one above the other, on the same loom. The piqué weave creates more body and crispness than a plain weave.

Below is a close-up of a 100% Egyptian cotton, lightweight, miniature-piqué pattern. A Touch of Lace offers a wide-variety of piqué blanket covers, shams, and bedskirts. Stop in our store, or visit our website to view some of our piqué products: A Touch of Lace.

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Care for Your Bed Linens

Q: What is the best way to care for your bed linens?

A: Caring for your bed linens can be easy if you follow some simple suggestions. In return, you will prolong the life of your bed linens and preserve their beautiful appearance. Remember with any linens to be sure to read the care label for best results.

Washing - Pre-wash your linens before first use. Separate your linens from other items in the wash, especially those containing polyester, which tends to create pilling, and items with heavy zippers, which can damage the fabric. Separate light and dark colors. Avoid overloading the washing machine, which can cause fibers to break down from excessive abrasion and agitation. You can wash most linens in warm water on a gentle cycle with a cold-water rinse, but be sure to check the care label.
(A Touch of Lace offers a wonderful line of linen, towel, silk and lingerie, and laundry wash)

Detergent - Use a mild detergent without added bleach, whiteners, or fabric softeners. Do not pour detergent directly on textiles; rather, add it to the water as the wash tub fills or dilute detergent with water, then add linens. Unless linens are very soiled, you only need to use half the recommended amount of detergent.

Bleaching - Chlorine bleach will weaken fibers and cause the fabric to yellow.

Drying - While line drying outdoors is gentle, safe and imbues linens with the fresh scent of the outdoors and natural bleaching of the sun, it is not always practical. You can machine dry most linens on low heat, but be sure to check the care label. Shake out damp linens before placing in the dryer. Never use a high heat setting, which will weaken the fibers, damage the fabric, increase shrinkage, and shorten the life of your linens. Remove items from dryer promptly, while still damp, to minimize wrinkles. Smooth and fold, or press with an iron, if desired.

Ironing - Check to make sure your steam iron is clean - mineral deposits could cause brown spotting. Iron linens while still damp. To restore the lustrous face of sateen fabrics, iron on the reverse side. For embroidered linens, iron them on the reverse side atop a towel to preserve the three-dimensional effect of the embroidery. Use a press cloth to protect delicate lace and cutwork.
(A Touch of Lace now carries linen water for ironing in four luxurious scents.)

Shrinkage - All natural fibers will shrink to some extent, but some companies generously overcut their products to allow for shrinkage. Do not wash, or, especially, dry linens on a hot setting, which is most likely to damage the fabric and intensify shrinkage. Always follow instructions on care label.


Storing Linens - Store bed linens in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Linens stored long-term should be wrapped in white cotton, muslin (old pillow cases work well) or acid-free paper. Avoid storing linens in plastic bags or boxes, which can cause permanent yellowing; natural fibers need to breathe. Cedar chests can also yellow or streak fabrics.

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Herringbone

Q: What is a herringbone weave?

A: A herringbone weave is a variation of a twill weave that results in a broken zigzag pattern. It is made up of short parallel rows, slanted in one direction and then another, forming a distinctive "V"-shaped design. A herringbone weave is often made more prominent by using two colors - one in the weft and another in the warp. The slope or degree of the angle of the diagonal rows can be altered by varying the number, tightness or size of yarns. Because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish, this woven pattern came to be known as herringbone.

Although similar, a herringbone pattern differs from that of a chevron. To achieve either one, a twill weave is required. However, a chevron is a true zigzag with the direction reversing at the exact point of the change, while a herringbone has a break, and actually jumps one or more places, when the direction changes.

Below is an image of a herringbone weave:

Tablecloth Sizes

Q: What size tablecloth do you need for your table?

A: It is easy to calculate the proper size of a tablecloth:

• For a square or oblong table:

• Measure the length and width of the table.
• Decide on the length of the drop you prefer. The drop is the amount of fabric that hangs down from the top of the table. A typical drop ranges between 10 to 12". If you want your tablecloth to go to the floor, then the drop would usually be 30" (a typical table height), but measure just in case. 
• Add the amount of the drop multiplied by two to both the length and the width of the table.
• For example: If the table measures 42" wide x 84" long and you want a 12" drop, then the oblong tablecloth should measure 66" (42" width + 24" total drop) x 108" (84" length + 24" total drop).
•  For a round table:
• Measure the diameter of your table.
• Decide on the length of the drop.
• Add the amount of the drop multiplied by two to the diameter of the table. 
• For example: If the table measures 60" in diameter and you want it to go to the floor with a 30" drop, then the round tablecloth should measure 120" (60" diameter + 60" total drop). 

Also remember to allow for shrinkage and add the appropriate amounts to your final calculations. A linen tablecloth or a cotton tablecloth may shrink approximately 4% to 8%. For a ringspun polyester tablecloth there is no shrinkage. 













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